This is what Rick Steves says about this experience.
"The Glacier Express is a misnomer — it's hardly an express. Not only does it take its time (traveling at about 20 mph to make the full trip in almost 8 hours), but it also makes several stops along the way. The route cuts along the southern part of Switzerland, between St. Moritz/Chur/Davos (in the east) and Zermatt (in the west). You can ride in either direction.
The most distinctive stretch of the trip is the high-mountain pass between Disentis and Brig. If you don't want to commit to the whole eight hours, you can try to connect a trip with this segment only (about 3 hours). Remember that you can join or leave the trip whenever you like (for example, Chur in the east and Brig in the west link conveniently into Swiss rail lines to other major destinations). This most promoted of the Swiss scenic rail routes travels between Zermatt in the southwest of Switzerland and various resort towns in eastern Switzerland (St. Moritz, Chur, and Davos). If you stay on for the whole ride, you'll spend almost eight hours crossing 291 bridges, going through 91 tunnels, and reaching an altitude of 6,670 feet."
Most of our friends here have taken the trip, some multiple times, since there are different routes you can take, crossing into Italy if you feel like it.... Some have done in both in the summer and in the winter so they could enjoy the gorgeous views in different conditions. We couldn't miss the experience so we also took the trip.
We decided to take the route from St. Moritz to Zermatt and this is how this particular portion is advertized:
"Panoramic train journey of 7 ½ hours on board the Glacier Express through the Swiss High Alps from Piz Bernina to the Matterhorn. Crossing 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels, the train reaches its highest point at Oberalp Pass (2,033 m) before following Switzerland’s deepest valley up to Zermatt. A delicious lunch, prepared by the chef on board, will be served to your seat."
No exaggeration at all. It is amazing.
So for starters a few words about the Express itself. (Ps. I am copying the information from GE's website).
In the roaring 1920s, and because of adventurous reports from alpine enthusiasts, the travel-keen upper-class from all four corners of the world at long last discovered the rustic charms of the Swiss Alps; previously remote mountain villages such as Zermatt and St.Moritz were transformed into chic health resorts. The three railway companies of that period (VZ – later BVZ, RhB and FOB) respectively successfully took advantage of the tourism potential at hand with the opening of the route between the Valais and Graubünden in 1926: the introduction of the through coaches Brig – Chur and Brig – St.Moritz exclusively in summer was met with a lot of interest amongst the travelling public. By the way, it was to take more than 50 years before the trains were able to also cross the impassable Furka alpine route in winter.
June 25, 1930 – an historical date after the opening of the connection Visp – Brig, the Glacier Express ran for the very first time from Zermatt to St.Moritz. To cater for travellers – one travelled in elegant salon coaches – and converted passenger coaches from 1st to 3rd class – dining cars were introduced on the route between St.Moritz and Disentis. Whilst the VZ and RhB were already equipped with state-of-the-art electric locomotives – the "Crocodiles" – the FO Railway was still working with steam engines (HG 3/4), which were sent to Vietnam in 1947 and because of enterprising promoters of the Furka alpine route were recalled to Switzerland in the 1990s , creating an absolute trend: nostalgic steam-engine trips are today more popular than ever!
At the beginning of the 1940s the time was ripe: the FO network was converted to electricity and on 01 September 1942 the through electric route Brig – Disentis was officially celebrated. With the turmoil of the Second World War, express traffic was withdrawn from 1943 onwards to be reintroduced with slight changes in 1948 – in particular, without an elegant salon coach but with a dining car to the Oberalp pass. The Glacier Express also benefited from technological advancement during the 1950s and 1960s: faster engines produced shorter travelling times even for the "world’s slowest fast train", and comfortable coaches as well as the reintroduction of the dining cars to Andermatt inexorably increased the attraction of the Glacier Express.
On 01 January 1961, the FO dissolved its administrative cooperation with the BVZ (formally VZ) and from then on commenced railway operations autonomously in Brig. Oddly enough – would you believe it that in 1982 the Glacier Express only ran in summer because the extended Furka alpine route was not safe in winter. Construction work on the Furka basis tunnel between Oberwald and Realp began in 1973 and service could finally start through the tunnel on 26 June 1982: the Glacier Express now runs all year round!
Throughout the years the Glacier Express has remained true to itself: traditionally on the ball – only the best is good enough for the passengers. A tradition that has been further nurtured and extended under the auspices of the Rhaetian Rail- way and the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway (MGB) – FO and BVZ merged on 01 January 2003 to the tune of this sonorous name. On 22 June 2005, the Glacier Express has celebrate its 75th birthday – and is even younger, more dynamic and popular than ever. Is that perhaps why it is giving itself a present of new 1st and 2nd class panorama coaches? Whatever the reason, from June 2006 it will proudly present itself in the beautiful Swiss Alps – traditionally trendy, just as one is used to!
And this is the map of the main route. We took the red marked route from St. Moritz to Zermatt.
I will describe each part of the trip in a separate post.
More coming up soon!
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